Luxury handbag glossary
From bag shapes and strap drop to leather finishes, construction and pre-owned condition, this plain-English reference explains the words you’ll meet while learning about designer bags.
Shapes and carry styles
- Baguette
- a compact, elongated shoulder-bag shape
- Boston bag
- a rounded-top, zip-close bag with short handles
- Bucket bag
- a soft-sided shape, usually with a wide opening and drawstring or other closure
- Clutch
- a small bag designed to be held in the hand, sometimes with a detachable strap
- Hobo
- a soft, curved shoulder bag
- Satchel
- a structured bag with a flap or firm body, often inspired by a document case
- Tote
- a generally open-top bag with parallel handles
- Top-handle
- a bag designed to be carried by one or two handles at the top.
- Crossbody
- worn across the torso on a long strap
- Shoulder bag
- worn from one shoulder; strap drop determines how it sits
- Strap drop
- vertical distance from the top of the strap to the bag when carried
- Gusset
- the side or base panel that gives a bag depth
- Silhouette
- the overall outline and proportion of the bag.
Closures, parts and construction
- Clochette
- a small leather cover or fob, often associated with keys or a lock. Clochette is a French word meaning “little bell.” Turn-lock: a rotating metal closure
- Sangle
- a strap or band; on some bag models, the word describes a fastening strap
- Piping
- a narrow corded or reinforced edge sewn into a seam
- Edge paint
- a coating applied to cut leather edges
- Lining
- the interior material
- Feet
- protective metal studs at the base
- Hardware
- metal components such as buckles, clasps, zips and locks.
- In context
- Sellier and retourné are terms used in Hermès bag construction. In broad terms, sellier construction presents more pronounced exterior seams and a firmer profile; retourné construction turns seams inward and typically yields a softer feel. Details vary by specific model and leather, so use the house’s description for the exact bag.
Materials and surface terms
- Calfskin
- leather made from a calf hide
- Lambskin
- leather made from a lamb hide, often selected for softness
- Suede
- a napped leather surface
- Nubuck
- leather with a fine, sanded nap on the grain side
- Patent
- leather or another base material finished with a glossy coating
- Pebbled/grained
- a textured surface; the grain may be natural or embossed
- Vachetta
- untreated natural cowhide used on selected Louis Vuitton pieces, which develops a darker patina with exposure and use.
- Coated canvas
- textile fabric with a protective coating, not leather
- Intrecciato
- Bottega Veneta’s signature woven leather technique
- Saffiano
- a crosshatched finish associated with Prada; exact product composition should be checked in the maker’s specification
- Cannage
- Dior’s quilted motif used on selected designs
- Monogram
- a repeated logo or motif, which may be printed, woven, embossed or applied.
Collecting, condition and provenance
- Patina
- a surface change that develops through age, handling or exposure; whether it is desirable depends on material and owner preference
- Provenance
- documented history of an object’s ownership or origin
- Authentication
- an evidence-based assessment of whether a particular item is genuine; no universal visual cue is conclusive
- Reissue
- a later production of an archival or earlier design, which may differ in materials or construction.
- Vintage
- a term used inconsistently in resale listings; ask for the production year or period rather than assuming a fixed age threshold
- Deadstock
- unused old inventory; the term should be supported by a clear condition description. “Full set”: seller shorthand for accessories and documents, so request an itemised list
- Sell-through
- the proportion of listed items that actually sell over a period; an asking price alone is not a completed sale.
No matching terms. Try another word or material.
Definitions are useful starting points, not universal technical standards. Houses may use a term in a model-specific way; verify the description of the exact bag.
Frequently asked questions
What does “patina” mean on a handbag?
Patina is a change in a material’s surface through age, handling or exposure. It can be expected on some untreated leathers, but it is not automatically desirable or evidence of authenticity.
What is the difference between sellier and retourné?
They describe different construction approaches used for some Hermès bags. Sellier generally has more visible exterior seams and a firmer profile; retourné turns seams inward for a softer outline. Check the exact model details.
Does “vintage” mean a bag is at least 20 years old?
Resale sellers use “vintage” inconsistently, and there is no single universal threshold for every marketplace. Ask for the approximate production period and supporting details.
References & further reading
Brand pages document the house’s own descriptions; independent museum records add historical context. Neither is a substitute for item-specific provenance or a professional assessment.